11.01.2026

The Real Documents Men

The story of the WWII ‘Documents Men’ fascinates me. Art historians and other professionals were assigned to the Army’s Monuments and Fine Arts Section and tasked with rescuing and saving as many of Europe’s art treasures as possible. To stumble on an incredible real-life example? Made my day!

“The art historian John Davis Skilton was stationed in Worzburg from June until October 1945 as an American Second Lieutenant and Officer of the Monuments and Fine Arts Section. In an exemplary manner, he organised initial rescue and restructuring measures for the cultural heritage of the destroyed city.


Most of the roofs of the Residenz, as well as the wooden ceilings and floors, had been destroyed by fire, and the surviving stone vaults by Balthasar Neumann were exposed to the elements.


Under the command of Captain Thomas Giuli, supported by Corporal Denis P. Myers as well as the architect Professor Albert Bosslet, the art historian Dr. Rudolf Kuhn and other German helpers, Skilton achieved what was practically impossible in those days: he found lumber, tar paper and cement to build makeshift roofs over the most important vaults. In this way he saved Tiepolo's frescos in the Staircase and in the Imperial Hall of the Residenz, which today is a UNESCO World Heritage site, from certain destruction through damp.”

“Immediately after the war's end in 1945, as the actress Ingrid Bergman made a guest appearance for American soldiers in front of the bombed out backdrop of the Residenz, as the surviving citizens of Wurzburg had begun rebuilding their destroyed city, and as the winter intruded with bitter cold and heavy rains, neither the hardened Main-frankers nor the occupation forces were particularly interested in preserving those art treasure that had withstood undamaged the calamatous March 16th 'Night of Bombs'. Had fate not then sent the American art officer John D. Skilton in the direction of Wurzburg, this metropolis on the Main probably couldn't boast the world over of the inestimably valuable art works housed within its walls today. The city is indebted to this young lieutenant, both a fervent art expert and admirer of Balthasar Neumann, that the most precious art treasures in the Residenz have to this day remained intact.”

“The precious wall decoration of the Mirror Cabinet with the reverse glass painting created in 1740-1745 was almost completely destroyed in 1945. Only the furniture, the chandeliers and two door wings had been stored beforehand in a safe place. Since the glass plates had been plastered directly onto the wall, the first one had broken when an attempt was made to remove it. The reconstruction was based primarily on this original fragment, an extremely detailed painting of the room by Georg Dehn and numerous colour slides taken in 1944 by Carl Lamb.


From 1979-1987 it was thus possible to recreate the entire interior, imitating the old techniques. The stuccowork alone took 27,000 hours to complete, while the gilders spent 30,000 hours applying 2.5 kilos of gold leaf. The artist Wolfgang Lenz reconstructed the complex reverse glass painting.”

“The Green Lacquered Room completed from 1769 to 1772 takes its name from the transparent green lacquer applied as a glaze to a silver ground to create a particularly luminous effect. Here too in 1945 the ceiling collapsed, the floor was burned and the walls damaged and blackened.


The restoration work in 1968-1974, which took around 32,000 hours, included the application of 120 m2 of silver leaf and 275 m2 of gold leaf. The ornamental and

figure painting was reconstructed by the artist Wolfgang Lenz based on historical photos and his own designs.”


10.31.2026

Würzburg, Bavaria - Day 3

Long day, lots of pics, putting info in captions. We ended up walking over 4 miles by the time we got back to the ship.

View from our river boat of Marienberg Fortress (we didn’t visit it)

The Old Main Bridge, built in the 15th-16th centuries, with statues of saints atop the span

Looking back at the river boat parking lot. The first couple of boats tie up to the dock, the rest tie up to the first 2 ships and passengers walk through both boats to get on and off.

On the Old Main Bridge looking into town and St Kilian’s Cathedral

Gothic Catholic Church next to the open-air farmers’ market. Very striking colors and statues.

Neumunster Church, 11th century, marks where 3 Irish monks were martyred

Residence of the Prince-Bishops of Würzburg, built 1729-1744 to rival Versailles. Additional info here and in more detail here.

The building was partially destroyed by bombing and fire in 1945. The slate roof fell in but the famous vaulted ceiling of the entry hall held, saving the fresco and the center section of the building. Restoration was completed in 1987. 

Main staircase and part of the ceiling fresco, one of the largest ever created.

Detail from the ceiling. Painted by Giovanni Batista Tiepolo.

The White Room

Imperial Room

Mirror Room was mostly destroyed in 1945. It was recreated from a small section of mirror that survived, still attached to the original wallboard. 

How do you heat a stone palace….. 

put a furnace in every room.

Gate to the back garden

Back of the Residence

Gardens

Such a peaceful view. I wonder how many times it’s appeared in a painting?

Statue of Pan. All the cone trees had a small statue partially hidden between tree and hedge.

Left side of the garden - see the stairs in the distance leading to another level? The right side was exactly the same but reversed, making the garden symmetrical.




10.30.2026

Bamberg, Day 2

Today was our 2.6 mile walking tour of Bamberg, Bavaria, 


a UNESCO Historical Site with a well-preserved medieval city center that escaped bombing in WWII. 


The highlight was Cathedral Hill. 

 From top left, Cathedral, Old Court, New Residence with rose garden, and old town Bamberg.

The Cathedral was originally built between 1002 and 1012 

 Side view

but it and its successor both burnt to the ground. 


The third one had a metal roof and has survived since the 13th century. (Here) 

 The Old Court Annex, originally housing but now used for storage.

The compound also has 


the Old Court (11th century) 


and the New Residence,


built 1697-1703.

Little Venice, built originally as homes for river fishermen

 Overlooking Little Venice

 Castle on the hill (we didn’t go there)

 New Residence rose garden

 Overlooking old town from the rose garden

 500 year old roofs tend to sag…

 Green building is a centuries-old pub known for its ‘smoky beer’. Our guide said it tasted like ‘licking a dirty ashtray’. 😳 I’ll pass…

 Above the pub doorway. Star at the end is Tudor-era symbol for Publican’s Guild.

 Statue of Empress of the Holy Roman Empire, and later Saint, Cunigunde (c 975-1040). Fascinating story here. 

 Town Hall. See the poles in the water? It’s a slalom practice course for kayakers.

 Back side of Town Hall.

 Pretty church. See the woman in front? She’s in 90% of my photos. I’d go to take a pic and she’d appear out of nowhere. 😒😜

 Statue in front of the pretty church

 More pretty church art.