Newport Mansions, For The Wrap

 Last day was a great day. 

It took almost 3 hours to drive from Salem to Newport (maps app said it would be 2….glad we left early.) but we arrived with a whole 15 minutes to spare before the trolley tour started. 

Jay Leno’s east coast house has 6 garages

Trolley Rob, the tour guide, made sure we got our $$ worth with some great stories to go with the crazy big mansions everywhere.

We did a walking tour of two homes, The Breakers and The Elms, both owned by the Newport Preservation Society (along with 9 or so other properties.) All were “summer cottages” for wealthy New Yorkers who spent about 6 weeks there each year. 

Breakers was built by Cornelius & Alice Vanderbilt between 1893-95 and totals 70 rooms and 138,600 square feet. (It’s just a cottage, remember ??😜) 

A few of my favorite pics:

I love sparkly crystal chandeliers

 Music room

 My favorite thing in the house - the wood doors are *curved* to match Mrs. Vanderbilt’s circular bedroom. ⬇️ Amazing craftsmanship!

 Stained glass skylight

 Note skylight ⬆️ and tapestry/portrait ⬇️

 What a kitchen!

 Oven door

 Double-decker butler’s pantry 

 Making her pretty for the summer season

 Entrance gate

The Elms was built from 1899-1901 by coal magnate Edward Berwind and wife Herminie for a cost of $1.4 million ($49.7 mil in 2023 dollars.) 

Mr. Berwind’s sister Julia, the home’s last resident, died in 1961 and the home was on its way to being demolished in 1962 when the Preservation Society purchased it. 

Almost all the furnishings had already been auctioned off; the Society has been tracing and re-purchasing items as they could since then.

 Back of the house

Some favorite pics:

 Second floor hallway

 Drawing room

 In the ballroom

 Dining room ceiling

 Double-decker butler pantry 

 Marble stairway

 Mrs. Berwind’s bedroom 

 Rose Room

 Grand-niece

 Best organized linen closet ever. Want!

 An actual vault to hold the family’s silver service

 Kitchen and zinc prep table

 Front doors
 Look at the trunk - wonder how old this tree is? Bet it fabulous in the summer

And that’s it! Tomorrow we head for Boston and start the journey home. It’s been great but I miss my cat! 

Salem, Our Very Busy Day 5

We saw so much today! I wasn’t expecting to like Salem as much as we did; hubby and I were here 20+ years ago and thought it was just ok. I think there’s more of an emphasis on the history now and less on kitsch. 

Salem Witch Trials Memorial. There a granite slab bench for each of the 20 victims who died by hanging (19j or crushing (1). Very moving. 

Scenes from the excellent trolley tour.

Revere bell; West India Trade House; Custom House; Salem Visitor’s Center

Salem Harbor Light: we found another light!

St. Peter’s Church, Salem (history here). When the church was enlarged in 1833, they moved the gravestones to the front (both sides of the red door) but left the bodies in place and built the church over them.

Bewitched statue. I loved that show!

The Witch House/Corwin Home. Fascinating history. This is the only building that remains from the witch trials era. I learned a lot from the exhibits. 

 

The Witch Dungeon. This was a short play, with dialog taken directly from the witch trial transcripts, and a tour of the dungeon, recreated from records and archeological finds. An original beam from the actual dungeon is on display. 

Things I didn’t know: cells varied in size based on what you or your family could pay. Everything needed - food, water, clothing, chamber pot(!) - had to be paid for or you went without. Cells for the poor were about the size of a telephone booth, often had 3-4 people chained in them, and had nothing in them, including a chamber pot. People were often in there for months. Incredible. 

House of Seven Gables. Another museum I wasn’t expecting much from that turned out to be very interesting. Hubby and I even climbed the (very narrow, bendy and awkward) hidden staircase! (Rachel said, h*ll no.” 😂) 

Hidden liquor cabinet; attic wall w/lath and plaster; kitchen; ‘penny store’ that was not in the original house but was added when the book became popular

 Seven Gables garden

Original peg construction; no nails!

Oprah’s favorite candy store (according to the trolley tour guide who said the store  makes/sends special batches of chocolate turtles to her)

Graphic warning - don’t look at the rest of this if you’re squeamish about c*rpse medicine. I’d never heard of it before and I’m grossly fascinated. Wanted to put these pics here so I can find them again.